Classic Military Jackets

Thursday, September 22, 2011

Two strap duffle bag

Mike one of our passing by tourist customers who visits uncle Sam's every time he comes to NYC has stuffed his new us army duffle bag full with gear and goodies !!!

Monday, March 7, 2011

Designers LOVE getting inspiration from the real deal

Seven days ago today I was lucky enough to attend the E.Tautz menswear show during London Fashion Week. This season I have deliberately held back from rushing out posts as I wanted to savor what was a joyous day for menswear in London. And the E.Tautz presentation was certainly a highlight worth appreciating over time, as you would wish to linger over a mouthful of good wine before swallowing.

Despite the slight scrum and occasional fashion snarl at the over zealous ROH security staff, we were finally ushered up the plush staircase to the salon-like atmosphere of the aptly named Crush Room. Under the refined light from that now much-photographed chandelier the fashion weary crowd were soothed by piano music and the promise of elegance.

Patrick announced that he would not be talking through each look during this presentation (and judging by the swooning glances from at some of the audience, this would be regretted) but he did introduce the collection with some key ideas and influences.

E.Tautz believes in simple menswear made well he reminded us. “The Sweeney”, “Jack Regan” and “70s sportswear” were touchstones, as was Tautzy-related couturier Paul Poiret and the experience of a rare sunny day on the island of Mull had inspired the colour palette. This focus on colour was evident throughout with a full, bloody, dark red being the predominant note. What followed was a collection of 20 looks based on separates that felt anything but, so coherent is the aesthetic at work here.

I include the full 20 looks as a gallery below but certain looks are worthy of individual attention:

The show opener was a beautiful raincoat lifted into high elegance by the delicious shade of mushroom, styled tone on tone with cotton trousers, socks and suede loafers.

Look 1:

Waxed cottons really shone in this collection for me: first seen in Look 4, a full length version made racy by a rich autumnal red, regally contrasted against beige cords.

Look 5 is mentioned here because of the astonishing colour. A vibrant English mustard wool coat, brought into contrast here by our fisherman friend and his fiery beard.

Look 7 showed the waxed cotton in another light: no-one creates a blouson quite like E.Tautz and this piece was fully unreconstructed Jack Regan.

Ahh, look no 9. Again the red plummy tones drew the eye, here into the depths of fine wool, accented perfectly by the red on grey checkerboard scarf, worn long with the scarf disrupting the traditional hemline of the blazer.

Look no 8 was another view of the waxed cotton, this time in a more conventional mid-length, possessing its own deep red warmth beneath the waxed surface but enhanced by both the striped sweater and the incredible richness of the trousers. As I look at the high res images here, the predominance of all these deep reds brings to mind raising a glass of amazing red wine to the light to check it’s exact tone.

Look 15 is notable for the use of a quilted waistcoat, a garment seen elsewhere on menswear day, here made regal through the contrast of red with a beige sweater, and suggesting an alternative to the options of overcoats and traditional suiting.

Finally, look 17 presents another example of Patrick’s genius with the blouson shape, here in (what else) a plummy burgundy.

I had in mind the manly swagger of 70s Britain from the moment the first model strode out and the overall show casting and styling were impeccable. [See Patrick putting the finishing touches to the boys' looks via Swipelife here]. I loved the conjunction of rolled fishermen’s hats with such haute menswear pieces, and the choice of the two red-haired models, one ruggedly bearded, one mad scientist with eccentric hair and statement glasses. After all, how could the show reflect the colours of a Scottish island without the russet glow from at least a couple of ging-ers?

The ultimate punctuation was an extravagantly lapelled jacket in blazing Tautzy yellow. Before we knew it the room was applauding, and Patrick with typical attention to detail was pointing out the significance of the East India Tea Company tea in our goody bags, which apparently turns an amazing autumnal gold in the cup.

Where do you think designers get their Military Fashion Ideas?? Where else Uncle Sam's.

The E.Tautz presentation was welcome in so many ways: as an opportunity to escape the gaudy fuss of much of fashion week, to sit back and see some genuine elegance shot through with surprising use of colour and an adherence to quality and detail that is as rare as sunshine on Mull. And a chance to enjoy Patrick’s natural storytelling ability, framing the story of his clothes here with such wit and likeability.

The Classic Military Jacket

Sometimes trends take a LONG time to come around, and since my 18-months ago Brandish post about Italian ‘Sartorialist’ men using military jackets as a stylish cover for their suits, the trend has become a familiar item in womenswear and come back to hit us as a definite menswear street current. Always a New York thing, worn by such anti-style gurus as Woody Allen in his heyday, the look was very prevalent there during my recent trip. The casual slouch of worn, military green can somehow sharpen up a pair of faded jeans and at the same time, at least in the hands of experts such as NYTimes ‘T’ Style editor Bruce Pask, be the perfect antidote to the stiffness of a shirt and tie. If you happen to get hold of a proper, vintage version bear in mind that it may need waterproofing, an easy process with some wash-in proofer to fend off the English damp.

Bruce Pask rocking a military jacket, jeans, shirt and tie ensemble

I’m currently waiting for the delivery of a 1970′s M65 military jacket from an army surplus outlet but when in New York I also spotted a glorious version at Uncle Sam's, one of my favourite New York stores (the line doesn’t yet ship to the rest of the world). Perfectly proportioned in the brand’s signature slim fit, I also loved the rugged clips used as fastenings.

Rugby Ralph Lauren’s military jacket for fall

I’ve already posted about my love of UNIS, the Nolita store. I tried on a vintage jacket there (their own-make military jackets being out of stock) and more recently came across this piece in GQ about owner/designer Eunice Lee’s love of the classic, green military jacket. I particularly love the designer’s attention to detail as she describes how the proportions of the jacket needed no editing, the American male of previous eras being smaller and more compact in stature.

Eunice Lee’s beloved jacket

I currently have a crush on the green military jacket, on a par with my summertime love of the blazer. Whilst I can’t wait to get my hands on this particular piece of American history, I’m also planning on a serious rummage in militaria stores on our upcoming road trip through California. The other thing I want is a Vietnam-era army shirt with counter-cultural patches, some great jeans and a damn big military holdall to bring it all home in.